Installation Manual Powerdyne Supercharger

Installation Manual Powerdyne Supercharger

FACTORY FIVE RACING MK3 ROADSTER ASSEMBLY MANUAL Pdf Download. Table of Contents .................. ABLE OF ONTENTS .................. ORWARD ...............

TATEMENT OF IABILITY ................... AFETY ................ OOLS AND UPPLIES VIII CHAPTER 1 - DONOR PARTS AND PARTS NEEDED........... ONOR ELECTION ............ ISASSEMBLY OF A USTANG ONOR FOR ARTS ..............................

Before you leave us. Receive a free catalog or join our email list. Sign up to receive our catalog or subscribe to our email list now to see our exclusive email. Bullet Camshafts are a provider of camshafts and related parts for serious Racers. Bullet Racing Cams and Southeast Performance announces the availability of Custom. VAG Links (Volkswagen or VW AG Links - pronounced V-A-Guh) is a comprehensive repository of VW and Audi automotive related links. Links are grouped by categories and. This is a New supercharger front main bracket that holds the head unit for a Paxton SN 89, 92, 93, 2000 or Novi GSS kit.

ECK AND ................. INDSCREEN ..................

OORS AND INGES ................. HECK TRAPS ................ NDER DOOR LUMINUM ................. IRROR ................ ADIATOR LUMINUM ................. XHAUST ..................

Installation Manual Powerdyne Supercharger Mounting

EARVIEW IRROR ................. AUGES AND ...............

Installation Manual Powerdyne Supercharger Rebuild

Mustang performance parts, dyno tuning, racing parts, Mustang parts installation and 2015 mustang parts. View and Download Factory Five Racing Mk3 Roadster assembly manual online. Mk3 Roadster Automobile pdf manual download. SuperchargersOnline : The Centrifugal Supercharger Explained - Supercharger Systems Supercharger Head Units Supercharger Parts Rebuilding Services Intercoolers/Heat. This is a quick referrence for various automotive engine bolt torque specifications.

Forward By David Smith President Factory Five Racing, Inc. If you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this undertaking with us. You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process. This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car.

Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed vehicles. You are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, State and local laws regarding its use. Safety Tips • Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start.

Don’t take short cuts. Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job. If you damage any parts, it will probably be because they were either not stored properly or, the wrong tool was used to install them. Tools and Supplies List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap- On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be reliable tools. Storage shelves for kit and running gear parts Body storage area (can be outside) SAE and metric socket set, a 5.

Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3. M, and Duplicolor.

The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and Dupont brand paints are excellent. Free Adobe Indesign Newspaper Templates on this page.

Required Supplies Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –.. Chapter 1 - Donor Parts and Parts Needed www. If using a 4. 6. L engine or donor parts newer than 1. L Assembly Manual This chapter deals with the donor parts needed in addition to the parts that we included with our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Mustang donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful.

Where to look • Junkyards – If they do not have one on the lot, usually they go to auctions weekly and can get what you want. Newspaper classifieds. In order to make a wise choice on running gear, there are several things to look for. First, make sure that the VIN numbers on the transmission and engine are present and match the numbers on the vehicle title (if available). If the numbers don’t match, (let’s say the transmission was replaced) make sure the parts yard records the new numbers on their bill of sale. The slip yolk must be smooth and clean without scores or gouges that can cause premature wear and develop leaks down the road.

We recommend using only yokes from manual transmission cars; the automatic cars have a weight that limits the universal joint movement. Loosen the bolts on the brackets at the top of radiator. Lift the radiator, shroud and the fan with clutch up and out of the engine bay. Discard or sell the fan.

Keep the shroud. You won’t need the Mustang fan since a 1. Remove the lower steering column by taking off the two bolts at the flexible collar in the area where the splined steering rack shaft begins. Remove the steering rack outer tie rod nuts and cotter pins. If the tie rod will not come out of the spindles easily, use a hammer but be careful not to damage the threads. Remove the power steering lines from the pump, catching the fluid in a bucket. Remove the braided ground strap from the rear driver’s side of the engine.

Follow the fuel lines off the engine and cut the lines 4” after they turn into the hard plastic line. Computer ATTENTION: If you are going to run the car with a Carburetor you can disregard the wiring harness part in this section.

We still recommend the use of a fuel inertia cut off switch in your car if using an electric fuel pump. TOOLS: Socket set PARTS: Mustang Computer and OEM plastic cradle. Mustang gauges mounted in gauge pod 5. The two gauge wiring connectors are removed from the gauge cluster by squeezing the outside clips. Remove the clear plastic gauge cover with a Torx screwdriver and discard. Place the switches and gauge pod in your parts area, awaiting kit assembly.

PARTS: Dash wiring harnesses. Note: The wiring comes out in stages. Keep the sub- assemblies together as they are removed. Remember to identify both ends of every connector that you disassemble. The easy way to do this is to tape and number each side of the connector the same or use colored zip ties. The connectors will only work if they’re mated to the other similar shaped connector. Front wiring harness with hookups for headlights, alternator, and horn Speedometer and Clutch Cables TOOLS: Socket set, duct tape.

PARTS: Speedometer cable and sending unit, clutch cable. Pull the speedometer cable out from the dash area keeping the rubber grommet that is on it in place. This grommet will also be used. Shifter and Shifter handle ATTENTION: The kit comes with new bolts for the shifter handle so you don’t need the OEM bolts. Save them anyway according to rule #8.

This, of course, makes finding and using such fasteners in the future all but impossible but it makes us feel good. PARTS: Donor car rear wiring harness. Remove bulb bases from the rear light housings if they are still on your donor. Use tape and a marker to label the wires.

Remove the rubber body plug from the fuel harness exit point in the base of the trunk area and unplug the connector. Use a ⅜” ratchet handle to undo it.

Tape over the rear of the transmission so that it doesn’t leak or drip fluid. Undo the transmission from the cross- member.

Loosen the cross- member attachment bolts. ATTENTION: Get help with the next few steps, as the parts involved are heavy! Lower A- arm w/bolts, brake caliper, spindle and brake rotor. Use a spring compression tool to remove the front springs or chain the spring to the chassis. Remove the three bolts that retain the struts to the top mounting plate. The fuel tank is held in place with two straps that go under the tank and bolt to the body in front. Place a floor jack under fuel tank and loosen the strap bolts.

All of the arms should remain attached to the rear end assembly. Once off, place the OEM bolts back into the arms and attach nuts so they do not get lost. Remove the rear end from under the car. Cut the upper rubber spring seat so that during assembly of the kit, it will conform to the spring mount on the frame. This is done with one cut across the part. Do not replace these bushings with aftermarket silicone pieces, as these will allow the springs to slide since they contain a slippery release agent in them.

Barbed fitting removed from plastic hose. Fuel Tank TOOLS: Pliers PARTS: Fuel Tank 1. At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Pedal Box and Accelerator Pedal The FFR Roadster uses a manual braking system. Accelerator pedal modified 3. Remove the bracket for the cruise control brake switch from the pedal box. Pedal Box 1. Mark the mounting face of the 1” up from the bottom of the mounting plate.

Pedalbox marked for cutting.

Installation Manual Powerdyne Supercharger
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